Sunday, January 29, 2012

FAQ 3: Comparisons between Nikon's 'Consumer DSLR' Models?

People ask me this question a lot: What is the difference between entry level (D3000, D3100), upper entry level (D5000, D5100) and mid-range (D7000, D90) Nikon models?

Here is my answer in four main points... (Keeping in mind that people would like to have bird's-eye view rather than going into the technicalities.

Friday, January 27, 2012

FAQ 2: What to buy? 'Point-n-shoot' vs. DSLR

It really depends upon your preferences:

1. Are you looking for a compact one which can fit in your pocket or purse? Easy to hold, carry and use... Go for Compact size 'point-n-shoot'... DSLRs are mostly bulky. 

2. Are you looking for an awesome zoom? There are big zoom 'point-n-shoot' cameras in the market which gives you enough zoom that a DSLR provides. But DSLR's clarity is of no match. If you need great zoom and are not very particular about the quality and controls then go for big zoom 'point-n-shoot'. To get all zoom levels in DSLR... you have to buy multiple lenses which will be expensive.

Tuesday, January 17, 2012

Case Study 7: White Balance - Fluorescent

Spot the difference?

I am not asking you to play a game and spot 10 differences between these two pictures :)

This is an example of White Balancing... As you can figure out, I was in Fort Worth Stock Yards at 6:24 PM to be very precise. I am talking about DUSK time after Sunset when there is little bit light in the sky and it is still blue.


Thursday, January 5, 2012

Case Study 6: Light Trails with a Firecracker


This is the longest 'shutter speed' shot I have taken till date... I took this one in Manual Mode with set shutter speed and aperture.

Exif data: Shutter Speed: 8 Sec | Aperture: f/11 | ISO: 200 | Focal Length: 28mm

Friday, December 30, 2011

Case Study 5: Light Trails (Zoomed-in Effect)

Guess where I am?

It was pitch dark, windy and cold on that day... I was visiting Austin with some of my best friends... We read online that this 25 feet high Christmas tree is the highlight there. Thought of doing some experiment so I went underneath it...

Exif Data: Shutter Speed: 1 sec | Aperture: f/7.1 | ISO: 200 | Focal Length: 18mm



FYI... this is not another 'trailing lights' example where you keep your DSLR steady on tripod at 1 or 2 sec shutter speed and take picture. In this example, the lights are not moving so you have to move your DSLR... rather its lens.

So I kept the same 1 sec shutter speed and clicked the picture as above... but rotated my lenses once from 18mm focal length to 48mm (Zoomed-in) during that 1 sec period and I got the effects (see below).

Exif Data: Shutter Speed: 1 sec | Aperture: f/11 | ISO: 200 | Focal Length: 48mm

Wednesday, December 28, 2011

Case Study 4: 'Depth of Field' and Aperture Example

Depth of Field: It means that only a part of your picture will be in focus and the rest will be blurred. The example below is a very shallow depth of field and was taken with an aperture of f/4.8. Aperture number around f/22 means that most of your image will be in focus irrespective of your camera location and it's distance from the object. 












































Exif Data:
For both the pics... (The only difference is that I focused on the leaves in the first one and on the backdrop in the other one)
Aperture: f/4.8
Shutter Speed: 1/125s
Focal Length: 116 mm
ISO: 200

Monday, December 5, 2011

Case Study 3: Back-lit Photo


When bright source of light comes from right behind the object... Things to look for: 1. Avoid any lens flare (Tip: position light source well behind the object) and 2. choose 'no flash' mode so that object comes out dark and looks like a silhouette.

I have tried various shots with someone/ something in front of a sunset... but in most of the cases (unlike the picture I am posting here) object doesn't appear pitch-black because of 'interference of light'. So one need to either try different camera settings according to the location or adjust exposure during post processing.


Exif Data: 
Shutter Speed: 1/800s (to avoid overexposure)
Aperture: f/14 (to avoid overexposure)
Focal Length: 26mm
ISO: 200

The overall composition and theme of the photo is more important in back light photography. Our DSLRs are way intelligent and equipped to take good back-lit shots in 'Auto mode' and  in addition photo editing tools are capable enough to make that shot better :)